6.01.2008

Lost boy on the far side of the world

Life back in Africa. It is different and it is the same. It is beautiful and it is strange. It makes me want to stay indefinitely and yet I want to be home and see you all. It was static but now vibrates with electric life giving mirth. I'll roll through the basics and do what I can to keep things brief.

Landing in Johannesburg was quite the out of body experience. I saw myself sitting on the flight surrounded by Egyptians on holiday and returning South Africans, wondering what I was doing.

Am I back? Am I back in this magic place from long ago? It can't be, that place is a distant memory, rhetoric for anecdotes, foggy childhood experiences, unreal like a Dodo, just pictures in books.

But slowly as the day went on I dreamily walked around the Guthrie's garden and property and came to terms with my return. The Guthrie's kept me for about a week and a half, bringing me all the elements of their family and South Africa that I missed. Braai, terribly interesting and educational conversation about Southern Africa, stories about the last seven years and of course cricket and rugby. I have found that it is just a series of reunions. They occur everyday and in almost every moment primarily having to do with senses. The smell of the air, tastes of familiar foods and Rooibus, the colors of a late Autumn in Africa.

I've had to adjust back to the sun getting low around 3 o'clock in the afternoon. But I remember now the beauty of the sunsets here, somehow on the opposite side of where our sun sets. This having to do with how the whole culture orienting their homes facing north, making the best of the tilting world when their summer comes in October through January.

I stayed with the Guthries for a week and a half, then went on to Johan, my friend from Pretoria Boys High. Johan is in a very successful band, finishing up the end of his university career with only a couple of classes a term and generally doing what Johan's always done best, enjoy himself. So I hope it's easy to assume that I lived the rock star life over at his place. Up late everyday, making loads of food before running some band errands, then going out to watch a soccer match or have a "Little Saturday" on Wednesdays or play a show. His band 'kid of Doom' is quite amazing. I remember Johan being one of Pretoria's best drummer's back in the day, and it seems that time has only helped. 'Doom' seems to have a galvanised cult following and I certainly had much to hear about how amazing they were as the night went on. We'd get home around 2 a.m. every night to make more food (usually boerwors sausage, white bread, beer and powdered coffee) then play his 8-bit video games like "Battle Tank" or "Agassi Tennis Pro," until the early morning light. So after another week of this life I was a seasoned South African roadie, if anything, but was happy to catch up with another friend Ismail before hitting the road.

Ismail is a friend from another high school I went to called Lyttelton Manor. I stayed just two very short days with him, but was so thankful to sit and talk about life and what has developed over the years. Books, music, movies, art, both of our tastes have moved in similar directions with our own unique interests. Ismail has a beautiful family, that welcomed me and told me to come back when I returned to Gauteng. By this time I had connected with my great friends Tessa and Alisa from back Oregon side. They were heading to Swaziland, and I decided to boorishly invite myself along.

Tessa and Alisa are adventure cowgirls, running around the world for 11 months and soaking up culture and experiences like sponges with wings. They had connected with a girl from Swaziland named Nozizwe, who had a story and background as diverse and expansive as her home country. Nozizwe is an up and coming film maker out of Jo'burg, who grew up at St. Joseph's Mission around the most inspiring people. St. Joseph's Mission is a school, craft workshop, optometrist, dormitory and church. It is home to many people that Swazi culture has cast aside, the disabled. The mission has grown for over 30 years due to the "Raging Bull," Father Cionne, who had made sure that people of all disabilities gain opportunities for themselves through education, vocational training and their own faith. These children and adults would have no other place to work or receive education otherwise and as a place of refuge it many time saves them from homelessness or even death. So after spending a week there, you can imagine some of the sunshine that I'm carrying in my heart pocket.

Nozizwe was an amazing host, showing us an expansive taste of the Swaziland she knows. Glass blowing workshops, candle factories, craft markets, Parliament buildings and cultural villages. Despite the outlook to the disadvantaged, the culture of Swaziland is very interesting. Being a absolute monarchy, the King and the traditions surrounding him are baffling, if anything. Example: Once a year the King makes love to his first (of very many) Royal wife, in a ceremony that anyone that wants to can attend. The only requirement for the audience: One must constantly be in dance, never stopping rhythmic movement in order to maintain atmosphere and respect. Nozizwe, the genius that she is, was full of facts and information related to these sorts of everyday traditions.

The girls have moved on to Ethiopia, and I left Swaziland yesterday moving down the east coast through Zululand eventually stopping in Ballito, north of Durban. I am currently staying at a hostel called The Secret Spot, run by a family of surfers and is very reminiscent of my Rotary hosting days in it's familiarity. They throw surf camps, have an on site board shaping facility and are pretty stoked all around. I'll let you know how the surf lessons go.

I must return to the world of the living. Thanks for bearing with the dry spell once again. I have found my voice. But I also think that many experiences I've already gained here will take years to process. Much love to you Geographers.

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